The Hallmark Society A field guide to antique and vintage jewelry

Hallmarks · By country

Swiss hallmarks

Swiss marks are most often met on watch cases, where they date the case far more precisely than the movement inside it does.

Marking since
1880
Gives a year
No

How the system works

National marks were introduced in 1880 and revised several times, using head and animal figures alongside fineness numbers. A Helvetia head is the form most often encountered on gold cases of the late nineteenth and early twentieth century.

The marks

MarkWhat it means
Helvetia headSwiss gold, particularly watch cases, from 1880.

The standards

Figure or markFineness and use
75018 carat gold.
58514 carat gold.
800Silver.
925Sterling silver.

Dating a swiss piece

By which mark form is present, against a Swiss reference. The revisions of 1880, 1888 and 1934 are the useful boundaries.

Where the marks will not give you a year, date the piece from its construction instead: the catch, the metal, the setting and the cut of the stones. That method is set out in how to date antique jewelry.

Where people go wrong

  • A gold watch case and its movement frequently have different dates and different origins. The case mark dates the case only.
  • Swiss marks on jewelry, as opposed to watch cases, are much less common and are easily confused with French ones.

Other countries

United Kingdom · Ireland · France · Germany · Denmark · Sweden · Norway · Finland · Netherlands · Russia and the Soviet Union · Austria and Hungary · Italy · United States · Mexico · Portugal · Spain · India · China and Hong Kong · Japan · Turkey and the Ottoman Empire · International marks