The Hallmark Society A field guide to antique and vintage jewelry

Founded 2026 · Independent reference

Old jewelry will tell you what it is. You just have to turn it over.

The front of a piece is where the maker performed. The back is where they simply did the work, and it is covered in dates: the catch, the solder, the marks struck into the metal, the way the stones were cut before there was electric light to cut them by. This is a field guide to reading all of it.

Open culet Table Bezel facet Girdle Old mine cut, cushion outline PLATE I · THE HALLMARK SOCIETY
An old mine cut, drawn to the proportions actually used before 1900: a squarish outline, a small table and a culet left open at the point. Every diagram on this site is constructed from cut geometry rather than traced.
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All the eras

Three questions account for almost every enquiry that reaches us: how old is it, what do the marks mean, and is it worth anything. In that order, because the last one depends on the first two.

Tools

All four

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The eras

Index

Jewelry is made of fashion, technology and materials, and all three change at datable moments. These guides cover what each period made, what it made it from and how to recognise it.

Marks, stones and value