The Hallmark Society A field guide to antique and vintage jewelry

Hallmarks · By country

French hallmarks

The most rigorous Continental system and the smallest marks. French punches are frequently under a millimetre and are struck where they will not show, so a loupe is not optional.

Marking since
1838
Gives a year
No

How the system works

The modern system dates from 1838 and uses animal and figure heads rather than letters. It guarantees fineness and indicates whether a piece was made in France, imported or intended for export. It does not give a year.

The marks

MarkWhat it means
Eagle's head18 carat gold, 750, from 1838 to today.
Minerva headSilver. A numeral 1 beside the head indicates 950, a numeral 2 indicates 800.
Boar's headSmall silver work assayed in Paris, 1838 to 1961.
CrayfishSmall silver work nationally, from 1962.
OwlGold imported into France of at least 750 fineness, from 1893.
SwanUsed on items of uncertain or foreign origin sold within France, typically at auction.

The standards

Figure or markFineness and use
950First standard silver.
800Second standard silver.
75018 carat gold, the only gold standard recognised in France for most of the period.

Dating a french piece

French marks give a period, not a date. The most useful transitions are 1838, when the current system began, 1893, when the owl import mark for gold appeared, and 1962, when the crayfish replaced the boar's head on small silver work.

Where the marks will not give you a year, date the piece from its construction instead: the catch, the metal, the setting and the cut of the stones. That method is set out in how to date antique jewelry.

Where people go wrong

  • French marks are struck on hidden edges: the inside of a shank, the underside of a bezel, the very edge of a clasp. Many French pieces are wrongly described as unmarked.
  • An owl means the gold entered France, not that it was made there.
  • Before 1838 several different systems ran in quick succession through the Revolution and Empire, including cockerel and head marks. Attribution of pre-1838 French work needs specialist reference.

Other countries

United Kingdom · Ireland · Germany · Denmark · Sweden · Norway · Finland · Netherlands · Russia and the Soviet Union · Austria and Hungary · Italy · Switzerland · United States · Mexico · Portugal · Spain · India · China and Hong Kong · Japan · Turkey and the Ottoman Empire · International marks