The Hallmark Society A field guide to antique and vintage jewelry

Hallmarks

Rolled Gold, Gold Filled and Plated: Reading the Marks on the Layer

Between solid gold and gilt brass lie four or five distinct constructions, each with its own marks and its own lifespan. The difference between a piece that will outlive you and one that wears through in a year is a number stamped in the clasp.

Gold over base metal is not one thing. It is a family of constructions that differ by a factor of a hundred in how much gold they actually contain, and the trade marked them with reasonable honesty, which means the answer is usually stamped on the piece. Learning the marks takes ten minutes and settles most of the questions people ask about inherited jewelry.

GOLD OVER BASE METAL, IN CROSS-SECTIONLayer thickness on a logarithmic scale. On a true linear ruler the plated film would be one hundredth of the filled layer.Solid gold585 · 750 · 18Kgold all the way throughGold filled1/20 12K GFbrass core30 µmbonded by heat and pressureRolled goldRG · RGPbase metal core8 µmsame method, thinner layerVermeilVERMEIL · 925sterling silver2.5 µmminimum 2.5 microns, silver baseElectroplateGP · GEP · HGEbase metal1 µmdeposited electricallyWear reaches the base metal in the order shown, bottom row first. This is why the underside of a shank is the first place to look.
Fig. 01 The same question in cross-section. Thickness is drawn to a logarithmic scale, since a plated micron and a gold filled layer cannot be shown truthfully on the same linear ruler.